Eventually, he became the tallest of the five. But before long, a certain Fire God named Aso Daimyojin learned of this and was furious. Since this particular god also happened to be Eboshidake's father, he was doubly energetic in smiting the presumptious son about the head.

And brother, did that kid cry!

Today, the top of Mt. Eboshidake in Kumamoto Prefecture is still crowned with lumps and bumps. But, ironically, it is not the tallest of the five peaks that collectively are called Mt. Aso and that take up almost the entire northeastern shoulder of this prefecture in central Kyushu. That distinction goes to Mt. Takadake which, at 1,592 meters, stands supreme among its brothers. Mt. Takadake is also, in fact, the only active part of Mt. Aso classified as still "active." What's more, it happens to be one of the only spots in the world from which you can peer down into an hot and steaming caldera, if that's your idea of getting warm.

A simpler way of warming up is to gather around the fire in nearby Aso Shrine on February 3rd this year. The occasion is a festival called Setsubun, and the burning mound of knitted thatch in front of the shrine is a traditional means of purifying the air and ensuring good health throughout the year. If you still feel a chill, hang around until March 21st and watch as the shrine priests swing bundles of flaming thatch through the air. This odd dance, called Hifuri Shinji, is supposed to attract a bride for the lonely God of Crops.

But there are many other, uh, sure-fire methods of warming your bones in Kumamoto. The most popular, of course, involves getting naked and immersing yourself in very, very hot water. Naturally, the water is heated by the same volcanic powerhouse that, 300 thousand years ago, raised Eboshidake and his brothers to such towering heights.

But not to worry. The temperature of baths in the many onsen (spas) of the region is generally under 40°C — except for the ones at Tsuetate.

Tsuetate is where the famous monk Kobo Daishi used to go for his neuralgia. The waters there can be as hot as 100°C!

Caldera-peering and parboiling your bones aren't the only things to do in Kumamoto. All mountainous parts of the prefecture are known for their fine winter skiing, and in milder seasons for their many kilometers of hiking trails through bird-watching reserves, great fishing spots and breathtaking natural scenery.

One of those trails might even take you to the lake in Aso Valley formed by Eboshidake's river of tears.

Ah, so!